We have all been there if you have worked on dirt bikes long enough-you're tightening a bolt and that sick feeling rushes in when you suddenly feel that pop, snap or little or no resistance. If you're lucky, the bolt broke and you can get it out-simply install another. If luck abandoned you, the threads will need to be fixed. The problem is our bikes have a lot of steel bolts that thread into aluminum, brass or even plastic. That is not a good recipe for exceptional thread life. Depending on the damage, sometimes the threads can be cleaned up, but the tools we're looking at here are for more extreme cases. Unless the casting or other part you're working with is exceptionally thin with little metal surrounding the threaded hole, the threads can usually be repaired or, perhaps more accurately, replaced. There are several options on the market, but the leading two are HeliCoil (and the multiple knockoffs of that brand) and the Time-Sert. In both cases the stripped hole is drilled out and tapped to a larger, specific size and a coiled spring (HeliCoil) or a machined insert (Time-Sert) is threaded in. Making things easier these days is the fact that Flanders Company (www.flandersco.com) is a distributor for both brands, so you can order from the site or any dealer or repair shop. We repaired junk holes with both types of insert, and either work well for different situations. The Time-Sert install kit comes with twice as many tools as a HeliCoil kit, so it is more expensive but is also considered a better repair if there is room for the shouldered insert. Once you have the install kits you can simply buy more inserts. You will need an install kit for each size thread, though. Here is how it works.

How To Repair A Thread
1) Start by drilling out the damaged threads. If possible, use a drill press to make sure you get a straight hole. Otherwise, do everything you can to ensure the hole drills straight. If the hole is blind, make sure not to drill in too far. You just want to clean up the hole. Time-Sert includes the drill bit, but HeliCoil simply gives the correct size.
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There are a number of pit bike options you need to consider when looking for a motorcross bike as you work toward the perfect race. These include size, power, and budget. If you consider all of these things when buying, dirtbikes for sale, then you will make a purchase that suits your needs at a good price.

Here are the things you should consider when making a purchase . . .

Size Matters

The size is very important. Buying a bike that is too big will make it hard to control. Riding around in the dirt on one that is too small could be uncomfortable or even dangerous. The right size should allow your feet to just touch the ground. To know if it is the right size, you need to be sitting far forward in the seat. If you are not, then you will not judge the size correctly.

If you are unsure about whether one is the right size for you, then ask your local motorcross store dealer or the person you are buying from to give you some tips about dirtbikes for sale, and if they can supply specific dirtbike parts for you too.

Enduro Power Options

The power factor is extremely important because too much power for a beginner, small adult or child will be hard to control. Conversely, if you are experienced then you probably want something with a bit more power behind it.

The ones with more power are generally faster, but they are heavier and so can be difficult to control. You also need to decide between a 2 or 4 stroke. Two strokes are more powerful, but do not last as long and are often not as stable as four strokes. Be on the safe side if you are new to motocross and choose one that has power you are comfortable with, such as a 125 or 250cc pitbike.

Once you have decided on the power and size, you need to think about what dirt bike you can afford within these specifications. If you do this, then you can find just the perfect one which will suit your needs and your budget the best. Also be aware costs of dirtbike parts, should you need to find them.

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So what do you know about motorcycle rims?

I thought I knew a fair bit until I started researching the subject. It's amazing how the more you know, the less you know; this is definitely the case for me!
Let me say something straight away; although I refer to motorcycle rims most of the time in this article, I am covering every aspect of the wheel apart from the tire. You can always look at my article on discount motorcycle tires if you want to know more about that topic.

When you think about it, a lot of the character of a motorcycle is found in its motorcycle rims; the size and style of the rims make a statement about the bike (and the owner)!

Problems with motorcycle wheels themselves are pretty few and far between. It is usually the bearings or the tires that are the source of tears and frustration!. However, things to do go wrong and some seek to find wheels better suited to their needs, so read on for solutions and ideas in the world of motorcycle rims.

Types of Motorcycle Rims

The two main types of motorcycle rims are solid wheels, in which case the rim and spokes are all cast as one unit, usually in aluminum, or spoke wheels, where the motorcycle rims are "laced" with spokes. Apart from the obvious point that the spokes add strength to the rim, the lacing also gives a design feature all its own to the motorcycle rims.

Other materials used are magnesium alloy, (used for aircraft wheels) and even carbon fiber! The main reason for going for motorcycle rims made of such exotic material is to save weight, so these wheels are generally used by racers.
Cast motorcycle rims
Made from cast aluminum, these are commonly the stock wheels on a huge number of motorcycle models. They cost around $500 -$600 each, and usually come with a chrome or polished finish.

Billet motorcycle wheels
These wheels are carved from a block of solid aluminum Using computer controlled carving, some incredibly intricate designs can be produced. You can even design your own motorcycle rims, with spokes "from the gates of hell" if you want! however everything comes at a price. If you can't stretch to a unique design, you can still get some pretty good billet motorcycle rims "off the shelf" from about $850 to $1250. Chrome finishes usually come out more expensive that polished motorcycle rims.

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It's time for some basic maintenance on our 1998 Triumph Tiger hack bike, so we thought it might be a good idea to record some of the work for the benefit of others.  We're also trying a slightly revised page format for a planned series of articles covering some basic motorcycle maintenance and repair projects.

webBikeWorld is known for its product reviews -- over 400 and counting as of this writing -- but perhaps not as well for its many maintenance and repair articles (this is number 87).  That's why we included two columns on either side of this page with links to other webBikeWorld articles that may be of interest.




We've always been surprised at the number of motorcycle owners who don't perform their own maintenance.  Everyone's very busy nowadays and may just not have the time, and that's fine.  But for those of you who would like to try your hand at some basic maintenance but need a bit of encouragement, we hope this information is useful.  In general, it really doesn't matter if your bike is different than the one shown here.  Most of the information can be applied to any similar motorcycle.

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I love riding motorcycles. I cannot say I “love” motorcycle maintenance. Although I have done quite a lot of bike maintenance in the past, including the basics, like changing tires, changing oil, replacing spark plugs, and air filters. I’ve also done electrical work and even replaced pistons and piston rings. But nowadays I let the shop do most of the work.

I very much respect the guys who do the majority of their own maintenance. It not only saves money, but it sure keeps you in better touch with your bike. (In fact there are some guys who seem to love taking care of their bikes more than riding them!) Regardless, no matter how little you enjoy doing your own motorcycle maintenance, there are a few items that are best handled by oneself.

Certainly checking your own tire pressure would be right at the top!

But taking care of our own battery is one of those simple things that even non-mechanics should take a greater interest in, since it’s easy, will prolong battery life, and save money that would be spent on frequently replacing batteries.

You already know that your battery provides the juice that runs the starter motor, lights, and ignition system. And those are pretty critical to our motorcycle enjoyment. Dead batteries are problematic, especially if they pass on before their time.

Motorcycle batteries are supposed to last 3-5 years, IF we take good care of it. (I tend to get the full five years).

But there are riders who don’t pay their battery the attention it needs. And they may need to replace their batteries every time spring rolls around. So, let’s visit the three main points of good battery care.
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First of all, never, ever take your bike to a car wash and use high pressure spray on it. Motorbike is designed to stand up to wet roads and rain, but it is not designed for high pressure spray. The spray will eventually force its way up under your gaskets and you will be stuck at the car wash for a while, cause it won’t start. If you will notice at Sturgis, Laughlin, Daytona, etc. at the Bike Wash stands, they have bikini clad girls hand washing bikes. They aren’t using portable high pressure sprayers, which would be easier for them, they are actually hand washing the bikes. This isn’t just for your entertainment, so you can watch them get all soapy, the hand washing is for a reason. For washing your bike, use any car wash solution, but never use household products to clean your bike. Dishwashing detergents are too aggressive and will strip the wax and dull the finish on black engines or plastic housings. Use only a thick 100% cotton terry cloth rag or mitt, or a lambs wool mitt. The loops in the terry cloth or lambs wool helps trap the dirt and helps keep it from scratching your bike. If your bike is extremely greasy and oily, use a degreaser before washing (such as PJ1 Degreaser Contact Cleaner or PJ1 Spray and Wash).
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